Saturday 21 November 2020

Sightseeing in the eastern part of Slovenia

Ok, so where are we now? Just a quick recap. We're back to the summer of 2018. We left home for another Eurotrip, which is becoming kind of family tradition (stopped this year by covid, most likely, might I add). We already spent a night in the Czech Republic and a night right off Graz in Austria. Finally, we got to Slovenia, our main goal. After due deliberation, we decided to choose a single camping for our whole stay in Slovenia and simply drive around the country, choosing a different spot each day. That's basically something new to us, as we usually just spend a night or two in a given place and then move forward. But with three kids on board (one only 10 months old), we decided it was the best option. Already in Slovenia, driving on the highway and passing by Ljubljana, we thought it was high time to choose a spot. So we backed a little and decided to stay in Ljubljana. Close to highways' junction and we could easily get to Ljubljana city centre by bus, so it seemed perfect (and turned out very convenient, too). First night meant a thunderstorm and heavy rainfall, with a lot of rain to follow the next day, too, so we decided to see Postojna cave and Predjama castle on our first day of discovering the gems of Slovenia. There. We got it :)



Second day welcomed us with lots of clouds yet again. Weather forecasts were pretty unanimous that it may continue to rain on and off around the western parts of the country. So what else could we do than go and see the eastern parts. After a quick breakfast, we were on the highway heading east. It was getting brighter and more sunny on the way and we were getting familiar with the place we were about to visit (reading a travel guide, duh. Paper one, as in a book. I still love those). We were on our way to the oldest recorded city in Slovenia, Ptuj. 

First, we loved the name. Second, we couldn't wait to see the castle. And third, we were happy to walk its narrow streets. But let's get back.

We parked our car as close to the castle as we could. The car park was suspiciously empty. It was already around 11 o'clock, so not that early, so we felt a little strange and started wondering if we got to the right spot. Yes, we did. We were just a five minute walk from St. George's Church, where we actually wanted to start sightseeing anyway. Already on the way, we could see the castle mounting over the city and Drava River. 

We went into the tiny church to have a look on what it's hiding inside (some precious art). Right next to the church, there is a town tower and Orfeus monument. Then we went a little up the street and once we saw an interesting narrow side street, we decided to take a turn. Also, it was a route up to the castle. 

Ptuj Castle has a very peculiar shape and arcades on all floors on the inside side of the walls. It looks charming. You can buy the tickets and start sightseeing. Don't miss the ticket building, though. Get all inside and have a look on the history of carnival events happening every spring in Ptuj. Plus there is (or at least was) a display of traditional carnival costumes. A little scary some of them, but it's all explained there. 

When it comes to the castle itself, there is a sightseeing route to follow and I recommend following it. It gives you a good introduction to the history of the castle. What is not that common, even the kids could find some very interesting bits and pieces for themselves. Starting with funny photo scenes (photo booths), through the whole process of making ornaments or instruments presented piece by piece like this:

to interactive bits including music or light. Of course, it's Slovenia, so there also had to be a dragon:

 and lace (I just love those! But there's more of that still yet to come).

If that depended on me, I could take some of the furniture home. But they wouldn't let me... They were simply stunning. I don't blame them, historical after all. Well, maybe a little. Ok, a lot. Let's not talk about it any longer, though ;)

After seeing the castle, we went for a walk in the narrow streets of the town until we got to Drava River. Following it slowly, then taking a few twists and turns, we got back to our car. It still was early enough to go to one more city, though. Since we were already in the east and were not planning to get to the east anymore, we wanted to make the most of it, even if that meant having a really long day. And so we did. 

We got to Maribor shortly after dinner, so we started the visit with ice-cream. Cause there's no better way. Especially when the ice-cream is so delicious that all of us didn't want to share theirs with anyone, so we didn't miss even a single drop. But seriosuly, though. The ice-cream we found was delicious and we only found this place by accident - we all love such accidents ;) Below - the ice-cream place in the back right by Glavni Most.

What is Maribor famous for? The oldest... noble vine in the world, which is entered into the Guinness Book of Records. It's said to be growing and bearing fruit for over 400 years! And here it is:

There is also a tourist information and a souvenir shop right by this vine. We got a map of Maribor there with all places worth visiting marked on it. Frankly speaking, to see all we wanted to see, we took a rather short walk a little up the hill. It is a straight way from the old vine up, first through the narrow streets, then through a park, up to a vineyard. We didn't get that far, though. We stayed in the park, as that actually is a very family-friendly place. A lot of space to run around. Or practice sports. Or just to sit under a tree and read a book. Lots of things happening, a stage, workshops for kids, a place so full of life. Plus two big playgrounds, one for older and one for younger kids. And what's even more impressive, there were also swings and merrygorounds adjusted to the need of kids in wheelchairs. It's still not that common (which should be!), so it's worth underlying. 

Even though most  of those narrow streets in Maribor are paved with cobblestone, it was surprisingly easy to navigate with a pram. And it wasn't even too shaky for the kid, either. You can see in the pics that she was relatively content with her ride ;)


What was our impression of Maribor after all? I hate this question although I've asking that precise question to myself very many times. And even though it's been over two years from the visit, my feelings remain similar - they are still mixed. There's no denying that Maribor is full of its own charm. Located on the banks of Drava River, with its narrow cobble stone streets, it gives you a chilled, summer impression of a small medieval town. Plus the beautifully renovated houses surrounding you all around. And that could be it. We could just end the story here and that could paint a nice postcard to the town.

However, I can't leave it just like that. Cause those beautiful building were often side by side with awful, neglected, often window-less cubes, reminding so strongly of the past. Of the communist rule of after WW2 times. I believe that it's changing. To the better. I can still see it in our country, too. Especially in smaller towns. But in largere as well. That some districts, neglected for years, treated often as second category or "those dangerous ones" gain new charms and change so much with the change of their looks. I hope and believe for similar things happening here. Don't get me wrong, I understand history. I understand the changes the country got through (in so many ways, so much quicker and possibly better than my own). Yet I still need to be honest here. True to myself. It's just my perception of the place. We loved our sfternoon there (have I mentioned the delicious ice-cream and that amazing park yet?), but still left with mixed feelings. And that's also ok.


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